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I have bled the brakes on hundreds of cars and trucks, using Gravity, Vacuum, Pressure and just plain old pump -the -pedal method and I have never had to depress the pin on a proportioning valve. Have you tried just bleeding the brakes with out the tool?
Curly
I start what I finish.
81 Wagoneer 4.2/auto
77 Cherokee S 360/Auto/QT
97 Jeep Wrangler
I have one, purchased from Power Brake Sales in Sacramento, Ca. also I saw one for sale from one of the outfits that supply 4 wheel disc brake kits (can't member their name) usually if the valve is not centered you can stomp on the brakes ( providing there are no defects in system) and pin will center, and like Curly said almost never needed the tool , Cheers
I believe it's meant to center the piston in the combo valve. If the piston isn't centered, the brake light on the dash will be on, signaling brake failure.
Has nothing to do with holding the pin in for bleeding, as I understand it.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
The book says it has to be in there to bleed the rears. I have spongy brakes right now. Going to try and do it the right way. I did the rear adjusters and other stuff. Changed out the lines.
'81 Cherokee Chief 81 WT Chief/MSD 6/Holley Sniper/ Rusty 4" Spring lift/ Bulltear oil adapter/K&P Engineering Oil Filter/ NP 208/ Serehill Light Harness/KC LED Headlights/ Evil Twin Fab Roof Rack and sliders/ Ross mirror mounts.
it's to keep the "piston" centered WHILE bleeding the brakes,it won't center the piston,mine is only plastic and there's no way it could do anything but keep the piston from moving while bleeding.
You can also get the factory tool on the Kent tool Web site and other vendors. It is still in current use and fits a huge # of vehicles.
79 Cherokee WT QT Golden Eagle white with gold windows "Pigger" only blows hubs the night before a road trip or the clodest night of year. Has only been towed cause of stupid.
Just to update this. I have been bleeding brakes on the Cherokee for some time. Doesn't matter where the prop valve is. As long as I use a mityvac pump it takes 20 seconds and about 10 pumps to start the flow on the right rear brake bleeder. After that just bleed normally all the way around.
'81 Cherokee Chief 81 WT Chief/MSD 6/Holley Sniper/ Rusty 4" Spring lift/ Bulltear oil adapter/K&P Engineering Oil Filter/ NP 208/ Serehill Light Harness/KC LED Headlights/ Evil Twin Fab Roof Rack and sliders/ Ross mirror mounts.