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So this semester in school is basic engines. I asked the instructor if it would be ok to bring my own. He said yes but it won't be likely to be completed. Best to hope for is pull it apart, measure wear etc, and maybe a little assembly with some fresh stuff. So I have a few questions to run by you guys. Technically I have two spare motors, both 360s.One is the mostly completel one from a late 80s waggy. That's the one I nabbed my exhaust manifolds and carb off of to put on Walter. It was supposed to have come out of a runner but condition/mileage is unknown.
My second option is one I pulled out of a 70s waggy I parted out some years ago. I wanna say 77 maybe? I believe it also donated the flat top knuckles that are under my Scrambler. I don't remember if it ran and I didn't care at the time. I was using it for mock up in my jeepster commando. It's still in the engine bay of that Jeep. The other motor is in the back of the commando on a tire, under a tarp.
So... Is there any pros/cons between either motor? Stronger bottom end or better heads etc?
I'd like to tear it down in class, put it all through the engine cleaner, and see what I got. If it looks like it's in good shape with acceptable wear I guess I'd do new rings, bearings, the summit camshaft, and edelbrock intake, and seals/gaskets. May do the oil mod if I can too. Not looking to build a race motor. Just a good spare to keep for either Walter or the Scrambler or if I find a J-truck. Or the Cherokee. Or the commando... Lol.
So which would you choose and why? Does it matter? And are there reasonably priced kits for all the parts? Any advice is much appreciated. Tonight was day one. 6 weeks goes by fast and I'd like to be ready when the time comes.
I should also add that while I don't think either is a boat anchor, there won't be money for machine work other than what I can do in class which will be limited to the heads (valve job) and maybe take a hone(?) To the cylinder walls.
Crankshaft bearings can be a major issue, not only the thrust bearing which can be eye balled by pulling/pushing the crankshaft nose but the wear making you loose oil pressure. So pick the one will less motion on the crank... try to do a compression check, and pick the better of the spares ... did I mention camshaft, NO because it seems like it might be a class project... and I am clueless on cams...
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
I would be willing to bet that both engines/heads are close enough that it won't make much of a difference. I believe both should be around 8.25:1 compression with the same size valves and runners. The heads may be the exact same casting.
If it were me, I'd check the crank bearings and journals first, and especially the #7/#8 rod bearings/journals. If there is excessive wear, the choice of which crank to use becomes much easier. Then I'd pop the heads and run a dial bore gauge down the cylinders of both blocks. (I have one you can borrow if you need it.) That would tell me which block I'd want to use. Then it's a matter of cleaning it up, throwing in some new bearings and rings, and putting it all back together.
The heads didn't change much or at all after 73 so either will work as well.
I agree with Derf, in that the crank with less wear on the journals and thrust faces is the better choice. There were many undersized main and rod journals from the factory and if one has been ground previously, you might end up running into problems finding to proper bearings.
AMC V-8 blocks have a nice nickel content and cylinder taper isn't nearly an issue compared to Chevy/Ford/Dodge so often a professional hone job is all the block might need.
1977 Cherokee Chief - The Blair Jeep Project III
A collection of parts flying in close formation
Thanks guys. I'm pretty sure the older one has never been molested as the Jeep it came from had sat a long time. The newer motor.. I don't know why it was stripped out. Any suggestions on an easy way to make that call before dragging it all the way to school? Getting either loaded will be a bit of an effort as the storage area is dirt.
derf wrote:Stripping the engine down first makes man-handling it easier. If you need an extra set of hands for that, give me a shout.
Thanks man. I'll ask my instructor how complete the motor needs to be. I'm guessing he will say intake to oil pan. I may be able to ask the guy that runs my storage place if he would let me borrow his tractor. I could just use the bucket to lift the newer motor out of the back of the commando. Have to figure how to slide it into the suburban from there. One more reason I need a J-truck.
Also, I need to hook up with you to get those valve covers at some point.
Hey, if it's this weekend (memorial day) I can sneak away to.
I agree that on paper the engines are equal. Personally, with machine work out of the budget, I'd do whichever has the least worn cylinders, but you'd have to tear down both too know which one that is.
Derf and I are buds, so you don't have to choose between us for help. We can both drive down if schedules permit.
79 J-10 (Honcho Mucho) KE0LSU
304/Performance Fuel Injection TBI/MTA1/SP2P/Magnum rockers
T18/D20/D44s&4.10s/33" Mud Claws
Grizzly Locker Rear
4" front spring drop, 5" rear shackle flip
Chevy style HEI (ECM controlled)
Dolphin "Shark" gauges in a fancy homemade oak bezel
3/4 resto, rotting faster than I've been fixing it.
REDONE wrote:Hey, if it's this weekend (memorial day) I can sneak away to.
I agree that on paper the engines are equal. Personally, with machine work out of the budget, I'd do whichever has the least worn cylinders, but you'd have to tear down both too know which one that is.
Derf and I are buds, so you don't have to choose between us for help. We can both drive down if schedules permit.
Well shoot guys... If you're bored and want to come play this weekend, I'm free. We could all go out to my storage and give them a quick look over. Storage is out in Peyton. Just let me know if ya want to come.
Looks like this weekend will be rain. Not conducive to pulling a motor apart in the elements. Guess I'll try and just go grab the newer one and see what it looks like in school. Thanks anyways guys.