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I'm a bit baffled . After cold start my GW takes several seconds before the oil pressure gauge climbs .. I have read about the , not being that accurate gauges Jeep used but still. After those seconds evrything is fine and pressure stays within 20 (idle) and 60 cruising at 50 mph. Switching it off and starting it again (even with hot engine) gives the same drill. . Could the pressure relief valve be the culprit or the spring?
What oil filter are you using? Most of the filters made by Champion Labs ( STP, Fram and many others) are known for having really crappy anti-drainback valves.
Edit>>> just to include that Wix, Napa Gold, Purolator and the Oreillys house brand are made by Mann. And the ones I've cut open are the same design, just different materials.
79 J-10 (Honcho Mucho) KE0LSU
304/Performance Fuel Injection TBI/MTA1/SP2P/Magnum rockers
T18/D20/D44s&4.10s/33" Mud Claws
Grizzly Locker Rear
4" front spring drop, 5" rear shackle flip
Chevy style HEI (ECM controlled)
Dolphin "Shark" gauges in a fancy homemade oak bezel
3/4 resto, rotting faster than I've been fixing it.
REDONE wrote:What oil filter are you using? Most of the filters made by Champion Labs ( STP, Fram and many others) are known for having really crappy anti-drainback valves.
Edit>>> just to include that Wix, Napa Gold, Purolator and the Oreillys house brand are made by Mann. And the ones I've cut open are the same design, just different materials.
If you want a responsive oil pressure gauge, get a Stewart-Warner mechanical gauge. This one will sweep up and down like a tachometer - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SWW-82323/
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
will e wrote: You would hear a ton of valve train noise if you didn't have pressure.
Not necessarily, one time I did not have any jelly to pack the oil pump, so I reinstalled the gears without any jelly, cranked up.... and yes it takes some time for the pressure to build up... but 100 feet latter, there was no oil pressure... so I parked with the nose uphill... still no clatter... I revved up the engine... still no pressure... the next day I had the jelly, and upon restart, still no clatter, the pressure went up to normal... that was over 20Kmiles ago... still no clatter at 224Kmiles...
As for clatter When I used to loose oil, I could tell when the oil level was getting low, there were some more pronounced noises...
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
Thanks for the suggestions guys! i have to check on the specific oil filter (car is not near my house). But which brand oil filter would mechanically be o.k. to use Redone ? It's reassuring in a little way that i don't hear all kinds of valve train noise and that electrical gauges seem to be slow ( good to know that) but i really want to get to the bottom of this and optimize it to the max.
I agree with letank that low oil pressure at low rpms won't necessarily make valve noise. The noise is caused by the lifters collapsing, so the pushrod smacks against the rocker arms. BUT the lifters also have springs inside of them that keep this from happening too.
Wag86, I do like Mann filters. All the filters they make for all my jeeps (except the trailhawk) are made in the USA even though it's a German company. Many here like Wix by brand name, even though we repeatedly cut them open and find that they are identical to the Napa Gold filter.
Myself, I change oil religiously every three months or 3000 miles, whichever comes first, so I don't feel I benefit from the synthetic media and space-rubber seals. For this reason I use the plain Purolator. It's the exact same design as the Wix but uses buna-N seals and cellulose filter media. Currently the Microguard from O'Reillys is a rebranded Purolator, but for 2 years they switched to a crappy Champion ( they use a leaf spring in the anti-drainback valve that just doesn't work) and just switched back to Mann late last year. That's the only reason I would wait to save money with the Microguard, you might get a leftover Fram.
79 J-10 (Honcho Mucho) KE0LSU
304/Performance Fuel Injection TBI/MTA1/SP2P/Magnum rockers
T18/D20/D44s&4.10s/33" Mud Claws
Grizzly Locker Rear
4" front spring drop, 5" rear shackle flip
Chevy style HEI (ECM controlled)
Dolphin "Shark" gauges in a fancy homemade oak bezel
3/4 resto, rotting faster than I've been fixing it.
tedlovesjeeps71 wrote:Where do you get a Mann? Is there a part number for Orileys that is good??
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Mann is the parent company of Wix, Purolator, as well as a rebrand supplier. They sell filters under their own name too, but mostly for German cars.
My Purolator PN is L30005, BUT I think both you guys are different due to a metric nipple on your filter adapter. Could be wrong though, I don't know what year that changed.
79 J-10 (Honcho Mucho) KE0LSU
304/Performance Fuel Injection TBI/MTA1/SP2P/Magnum rockers
T18/D20/D44s&4.10s/33" Mud Claws
Grizzly Locker Rear
4" front spring drop, 5" rear shackle flip
Chevy style HEI (ECM controlled)
Dolphin "Shark" gauges in a fancy homemade oak bezel
3/4 resto, rotting faster than I've been fixing it.
You could always get a "wet line" mechanical gauge and temporarily install it and see if the issue is still there. That will tell you whether it is a gauge issue or truly an oiling problem.
If you always have low oil pressure at startup at some point you are going to hear a lot of valve train noise. The hyd lifters will have enough lash to make noise.
If you want to be sure, add a mechanical gauge. I have one in the engine compartment for my mustang. Instant oil pressure on startup.
az chip wrote:The NAPA filters and AC filters seem to do well.
AC filters here... OEM filters are always the best, many lifetime ago, I cut open a ferd filter and the replacement carried by the parts store, what a difference, half the paper material, half the pleats... same for the H0nda...
As for Napa, the only time I used a napa gold when the 74 had about 175Kmiles, within a few days one of the hydraulic lifter collapsed... so I have passed on napa filters... probably a fluke, but... this is my story.
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
Just to follow up ; i mounted a new electrical pressure gauge and that one clarified it. The one that came out was not working properly. Now pressure immediately files up to almost max but the difference now is that i get it confirmed...
Just to follow up ; i mounted a new electrical pressure gauge and that one clarified it. The one that came out was not working properly. Now pressure immediately files up to almost max but the difference now is that i get it confirmed...
az chip wrote:The NAPA filters and AC filters seem to do well.
AC filters here... OEM filters are always the best, many lifetime ago, I cut open a ferd filter and the replacement carried by the parts store, what a difference, half the paper material, half the pleats... same for the H0nda...
As for Napa, the only time I used a napa gold when the 74 had about 175Kmiles, within a few days one of the hydraulic lifter collapsed... so I have passed on napa filters... probably a fluke, but... this is my story.
I did some reading on this. Seems there are two versions of the NAPA filter. I will not be using either. I have switched to AC filters on my DD. Bought a USA Oil Filter for the Jeep. Bulltear oil pump plate is inbound this week. Hopefully running by the weekend.
'81 Cherokee Chief 81 WT Chief/MSD 6/Holley Sniper/ Rusty 4" Spring lift/ Bulltear oil adapter/K&P Engineering Oil Filter/ NP 208/ Serehill Light Harness/KC LED Headlights/ Evil Twin Fab Roof Rack and sliders/ Ross mirror mounts.