PS pump HP hoses access for removal

[letank]

hummm, which tool to use to remove the HP hose being the PS pump would be recommended... nanowrench?




I cannot even grab the fitting


Even If I remove the PS from the bracket wizzardry, the Hard line will still be in the way



So I managed to replace most of the PS fluid, it was dark, and the oozing has stopped. AHHHHH, the oozing never stops, only trickles down... At least it is not squealing anymore...
The 74 has more clearance

[will e]

It's a pain. I found it is almost easier to unbolt the pump and pull it slightly forward.

[Nikkormat]

I used to have access to a set of flare nut sockets, sockets with a cutout for the hard line to pass through. It seems hat sapon is the last company to make a set and they are no cheap.

Buy a set of these and cut slots in them like line wrenches. http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-sa ... 32041.html

[letank]

I used to have access to a set of flare nut sockets, sockets with a cutout for the hard line to pass through. It seems hat sapon is the last company to make a set and they are no cheap.

Buy a set of these and cut slots in them like line wrenches. http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-sa ... 32041.html

Thank you, excellent idea, I was thinking of bending a flared wrench, but it is easier to cut a hole for the one that is already offset... it is funny, tackle a problem and buy another set of tools.... and yes it is metric 15mm, I do not have a metric set of flare nut wrenches, only standard...

Price is much better than a flare nut crowfoot wrench, which probably would not fit...

[ShagWagon]

I just went through this yesterday. Changed hose from parts rig.

Removal I undid the bottom line, then removed the pump and,pulled hose through the bracket out the front still connected.

On,parts rig. I put a flare wrench 11/16 on it barely enough to break loose and mm to turn room. Once broke loose came off by hand.

Installation I bolted up pump and tried to tighten the fitting while pump was installed. Had slight leak because it was so hard to tighten. Took me several more times of trying to tighten it ever so slightly while checking by wiping a paper towel for fluid then tighten till it finally stopped. The other hose and the bolts make it hard to get any turn on the wrench. But it can be done.

The fittings were different nut sizes though the threads were the same go figure there.

I'd say both ways just as hard so might as well pull it and check your pulleys and belts. Not that hard.

Make sure the first bend on the steel line points towards the top of your fender at an 11:00 position so your hose is out of the header and zip tie your return away from the heat too.

Hope it helps.

[ShagWagon]

There's that little shaved part on the back of the bracket at about 1 o'clock position that gives you that little bit to sneak the wrench on the nut and micro turn.

[letank]

There's that little shaved part on the back of the bracket at about 1 o'clock position that gives you that little bit to sneak the wrench on the nut and micro turn.

Thank you, good pointers. May be a little dremel tool action will help, I suspect that the O-ring is in need of attention. I am trying to avoid a time-consuming removal.

[ShagWagon]

If I had to do again I'd remove the pump and reinstall the hose to the back of the pump first and feed it through the bracket hole and then bolt back up. Making sure the hose tube points toward the fender not straight down.

It was difficult just to thread it back on through the back too while it was mounted.Getting it off was easy.

Seems like more work and time to take out the pump but the time and effort fooling around trying to, thread it back in there, and get a wrench on it and tighten it without stripping or damaging anything else in the process would be well worth it.

[letank]

May be this set could do the job? I'll measure clearence

[babywag]

I've always just used my normal wrenches, the sets I have are good ones though.
Much narrower than typical cast one like you pictured.
Matco/Snap-on sets...the cheapo cast ones I have are like twice as thick.
Crows feet don't really fit in there...too thick and not enough room rotate.

[will e]

I curse the AMC engineers that came up with this. I imagine some kind of special factory tool was used on the assembly line.

[Nikkormat]

I curse the AMC engineers that came up with this. I imagine some kind of special factory tool was used on the assembly line.

The problem lies with some bean counter. Before they added the little steel plate with the 1/2" rachet hole the barcket was perfect. The tensioner bolt used to be resivoir mounted, so no need for the plate, and a line wrench fit fine.

The problem later became worse with the addition of the air diverter valve.

[letank]

I've always just used my normal wrenches, the sets I have are good ones though.
Much narrower than typical cast one like you pictured.
Matco/Snap-on sets...the cheapo cast ones I have are like twice as thick.
Crows feet don't really fit in there...too thick and not enough room rotate.

Indeed, my old set from the motorcycle days are so much lighter and fit in tighter spots. The snap on sockets are so narrow they fit anywhere... time for evaluation of the alternate options

some are better



May be... depend on the amount of available rotation



12 points being ideal

[babywag]

dunno, maybe hose is in weird orientation I've never had trouble with that fitting?
just replaced it few weeks ago, easy job?

[ShagWagon]

And I thought I did good by buying a set of 3 decent line wrenches from napa.

[tedlovesjeeps71]

And I thought I did good by buying a set of 3 decent line wrenches from napa.

Lol!
I'm just finishing my 4th week of school and they've had the Crack-on guy there 3 times. Most folks that go into auto tech jobs will need the quality and the warranty. I feel like an odd egg because he isn't phasing me. Most of my tools have served me well for 20+ years, some being hand-me-downs from my dad. Wide assortment of snap on, Matco, blue point, old Craftsman, and a bunch of random crap quality stuff for the junkyard runs.
It ain't easy when they plot that catalog of shiny stuff in front of ya and say "part of school money is 2000.00 for tools.
Honestly, I think I'll go do a quality scan tool. Maybe a few other specialty tools I may not already have but may not want a cheap version of. Most the tool sets are so full of "fluff"... no way I need another set of screwdrivers or Allen wrenches! Haha!
But sometimes there is a very right tool for the job.


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[Cheap Hobby]

Many years ago while working at the dealership our factory service rep Frank Panic of had a directive from the factory "ask everyone what thoughts they had to improve work times and flow". I replied have the engineers that designed these vehicles come out and show us how to change dash lights, change dash voltage regulators and power steering pump hoses in the time allowed. His reply" wow 6 shops this week and the same things except you forgot remove exhaust bolts with out breaking them." We never got a response and they never asked again.

[Nikkormat]

Quality scan tool. FO SHO! Best tool you can buy now a days.

The aformentioned flare nut sockets.
https://store.snapon.com/Flare-Nut-FLAN ... 31402.aspx

[letank]

dunno, maybe hose is in weird orientation I've never had trouble with that fitting?
just replaced it few weeks ago, easy job?

Weird, I know, on the 74 it was no brainer.... and in the end, instead of goofing off, I should simply drain, remove and replace, but this is no fun to do it the easy way. Next step will probably be tool torment with the blue wrench

Many years ago while working at the dealership our factory service rep Frank Panic of had a directive from the factory "ask everyone what thoughts they had to improve work times and flow". I replied have the engineers that designed these vehicles come out and show us how to change dash lights, change dash voltage regulators and power steering pump hoses in the time allowed. His reply" wow 6 shops this week and the same things except you forgot remove exhaust bolts with out breaking them." We never got a response and they never asked again.

Ah, ah, ah... the fun things about wrenching on Jeeps, is that most people come for advice, may be I should start a car concierge service...
Dash lights, on some bimmer you have to remove the steering wheel, but before the airbag has to be out of the way
Headlight bulb, on the smart, you have to remove the fender
CPU hibernation, battery out for too long -30days-, you will fail the smog check because there is not enough emission info to stream to the AIr Resource Board that is responsible for smog check, poor neighbor had to drive his exploder for 30 start cycles and do some sequencing of road speed before he could pass smog

Quality scan tool. FO SHO! Best tool you can buy now a days.

The aformentioned flare nut sockets.
https://store.snapon.com/Flare-Nut-FLAN ... 31402.aspx

scan tool... I hope that it comes with good instructions...

Nice gold plated flare nut sockets, ebay has some really better prices

[tedlovesjeeps71]

Quality scan tool. FO SHO! Best tool you can buy now a days.

The aformentioned flare nut sockets.
https://store.snapon.com/Flare-Nut-FLAN ... 31402.aspx

That's kinda my thinking. Looks like I'll have two choices.
The slightly older, bigger one like this:


Or the newer, smaller (but probably does more?) version:


The older one would leave me some money (thanks to school discount) to buy some other stuff. Not sure how I'll do it. What sucks is we get the school discount up to like 9800.00 of stuff. Being broke, all I can do is spend the 2000.00 or so I get from the school. Be nice to buy a TIG or some of the more obscure tools I'd like to have. Discount goes away when I graduate.


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