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so this is my last report : have installed new 8 " dual booster, new rear cylinders, rebuilt a hard line which was bent, etc... so now brakes are WORKING ! thanks to you all for your help !
PS : i discovered that the booster check valve on the 7" dual was faulty. i m upset after my mechanic, will not bring my waag anymore with him, not professional at all
i m still having a weird braking even if i drive the car everyday. the travel of the pedal is quite long and the pedal is not very firm. under a lot of pressure of my foot on the pedal, the rear wheels can be locked. do you think i should add an adjustable valve between the proportioning valve and the rear drums ? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wilwood-Disk-Br ... 1438.l2649
thanks
Tara
Last edited by tara on Sat Aug 05, 2017 11:16 am, edited 1 time in total.
Have you ch3cked all your brake lines
I had the same thing happen to me, I had the smallest leak at the rear junction block, allowing air in the system.
Spray all the connections with brake cleaner and wipe down as much as possible.
Hopefully you don't have a leak somewhere, but a slight air pocket in the system still
US Marine
79 Jeep Cherokee
360/TH400/Full time TC
Dolphin gauges
GM style HEI
Power windows
Serehill tailgate and headlight harness
"My jeep has no manners it
marks every parking spot"
I think adding an adjustable valve will help
Seems you have replaced everything by now.
Disc up front drums in the back.
New MC new calipers up front, brake cylinders in the back, brake booster.
All from different kits,
Hopefully and adjustable proportioning valve will help dial the back brakes.
US Marine
79 Jeep Cherokee
360/TH400/Full time TC
Dolphin gauges
GM style HEI
Power windows
Serehill tailgate and headlight harness
"My jeep has no manners it
marks every parking spot"
If the rear drums are locking under a good pressure on pedal, it might seem that there is too much pressure on the rear so decreasing the pressure with an adjustable valve could do the job and may be let more pressure on the front discs ?