motorcraft 2150 carb

[Zorm]

Been working with my son on his 75 2 door Cherokee. Verified today that the stock fuel pump was not working. Replaced it and ran a line to a gas can, we think something from the tank may have messed up the pump. After finding leaks in the old hoses up by the carb and replacing. We did get her to start up and run, actually idle for a bit.

Still trying to set the timing after swapping in the points dizzy but after a starter issue and now this, we are slowly getting her on the road.

Ok so after the initial idle, she does not want to start again unless we pour gas down the carb. I did notice that while my son was trying to start the old girl, fuel started leaking from the accelerator pump area, got a bad diaphragm? I can get just the accelerator pump right? can that be a issue or part of the issue? what else should we be looking at.

thanks

[pyro]

Mine does that too, however all I need to do is change the gasket.

[carnuck]

Pull the cover. If it's clean and the "red" check valve is still there (some are orange and some green) then just a new diaphram to test it. If gummy, rebuild the carb. To do it cheapest, get a '69 F250 carb kit for a 390 2 bbl. Single stage powervalve makes it MUCH cheaper. I run the performance section power valves anyways.

[TeaBag]

Zorm-

I have a perfectly good rebuilt 2150 I took off my JGW in favor of fuel injection collecting dust in my garage. I'll make you a great deal on it if your interested. It beats having to rebuild.

What part of P-cola do you live in. We just moved to Northern VA after living in Pcola for 8 years. I miss it.

[Zorm]

TeaBag, at least you have mountains now, I miss those.
Jim, it wasn't gummy, and the check valve was good, the diaphram was old and cracking. I also remove the top and saw black gas and orange junk on the bottom of the bowel and cleaned it all out. I think after talking with the folks at Auto Zone and helping them find the a good rebuild kit, that might be the one we came up with. Funny, their district manager was the last one to finally help me and we worked it out, he then offered me a part time job after I was working around their database. I had part timed for AZ before and gave him some history and names of old folks at other stores. TeaBag, may take you up on that. I'll pm ya.

Well, now on top of this, the key is stuck in the "run" position. Cant start it or turn to remove it. Moved the shifter through the gears and nothing. Steering wheel moves freely, even tried hitting the steering colum, and nothing, its just stuck there, it'll move back and fourth a bit but never out of "run" position, any ideas?

Oh TeaBag, we live on the west side, about Blue Angle Parkway and Sofley Field rd.

[pyro]

Ignition switch, lock cylinder or linkage out of calibration or bad.

[Cheap Hobby]

If you rebuild check if the kit has the floats so you can order at same time to save time. No matter how good the current floats look replace them.

[Tatsadasayago]

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[Zorm]

Wow, that really helped the lock thing. Actually, the tumblers in the key switch were messed up. Son removed everything, with some help and we ended up replacing the lock cylinder and since it was out, the ignition switch. Works like a champ. Now we need to fine new door lock mech. with key anyone got two?

[Tatsadasayago]

Glad it was just the lock cylinder!

Napa has a pair of door lock cylinders with keys for 27.38 at my local store so chances are you can get them near you.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Catal ... 0336127646


I used 1977 Wagoneer for the search but I believe they locks were the same for all years with the possible exception of GW Limiteds with electric locks/keyless entry.

[carnuck]

You may need to trim the end back a bit.