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I have 3 wires just hanging in the engine compartment of my 82 wagoneer v8 360. I believe 1 is the purple oil pressure wire another is the purple with trace temp sender wire and the last is a red with trace wire around the carb.... Any help figuring out where these go would be greatly appreciated. I'm new to the forum and new to jeeps in general. So sorry in advance if I've gone about asking this question in the wrong way thanks
I ended up figure it out and got all wires hooked back up but now my starter will not disengage it constantly is cranking if the truck is running.... Bad start solenoid or faulty starter as I just replaced it not long ago not sure what it could be...
If you start it and the "S" wire stays energized, then there is a problem with the wiring, not the solenoid or starter. If the "S" wire stays energized, you should be able to pull it off and have the starter stop. If not, then there is something wrong in the solenoid or starter.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
It actually turns off completely when I pull the blue wire off. Yet if I pull the blue wire off and put the key in run position and jump out the solenoid the truck starts and starter does not stay engaged. And another problem I'm having now is once the truck is started it will not turn off
19wagoneer82 wrote:It actually turns off completely when I pull the blue wire off. Yet if I pull the blue wire off and put the key in run position and jump out the solenoid the truck starts and starter does not stay engaged. And another problem I'm having now is once the truck is started it will not turn off
Blue wire means nothing to me. Where does it go? What is it connected to?
You might get lucky and find someone who has your year and model Jeep, has addressed this problem before, and has committed to memory the solution. But it's more likely that you will need to figure it out yourself. You may have the wire positions messed up, or you may have a separate problem.
I suggest you use your eyes and multimeter and trace the wires back to where they come from. Compare the colors of the suspect wires to your wiring diagram, from your FSM. This will involve some effort. Electrical problems can be very difficult to diagnose remotely and with no effort. Be systematic, take notes, make drawings. Determine that you have everything connected correctly, then see if you still have a problem.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
Sorry for being vague. The blue wire is the one that goes to the s terminal on my solenoid. And yea I'm gonna get a little more in depth with it today. Just didn't know if like you said someone has had this problem before and might know the culprit. Thanks for all your help.
Thank you I double checked wires and tried again and it seems the starter constantly cranking or not disengaging is the only problem I'm having now. Thank you for help
Maybe the ground is on the wrong pin? That or the solenoid is bad. If you remove the S wire and put the key on, then hooking power to the S terminal should make it go. If it still keeps cranking when you remove your new wire from the S terminal, either the solenoid is bad (80%) or the starter is dragging too much power and welding the solenoid contacts together.
Hi sorry it's been soloing I've been busy with work and haven't been able to work on it much. I've checked all wires and it seems the red and blue we're backwards but my starter still won't disengage and my truck is now running on even with a diode installed on the brown wire that goes into the alternators Molly plug. Could it have something to do with my lock cylinder?
The lock makes the ignition slider move. That is it's only job, aside from making it so not just anyone can drive off with it. The ignition slider can break inside and do some of these things. You don't even have to remove the old one to test if you have a new one (shops won't return used electricals) Tilt and non-tilt switches are different mounting, but either will work for testing.
And I just figured out that if I pull the back black wire that comes from the neutral safety switch to the solenoid the starter stops? I guess the problem lies there