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It's not as horrible in the front as it would be in the back. You can just lock one hub and leave the other unlocked. Leave the passenger side hub locked and it'll always pull that side. If you need more traction, get out and lock the driver hub. If you leave both locked in 4wd, you're going to have a really hard time steering.
aa
1983 J-10 - 4.6L(MPFI)/CS130D/Hydroboost/NV3550/D300/44/44/3.54/Disc-Disc/32s/42 gallon 'burb tank
It's not going to work for me. I haven't pulled it out yet.how many parts will I need to replace to get it back to normal? I guess the gears won't come out now that they are welded.
Hendo2.5 wrote:It's not going to work for me. I haven't pulled it out yet.how many parts will I need to replace to get it back to normal? I guess the gears won't come out now that they are welded.
That's the rub. You are going to have to pull the carrier and either break or cut the welds to get the spiders and side gears out. If you are wanting an open differential, it might be better to source a used carrier. If not, now is the time for a limited-slip, locker or selectable locker.
1977 Cherokee Chief - The Blair Jeep Project III
A collection of parts flying in close formation
If you swap the carrier, then you'll need to reset all the gears. If you can just replace the spider gears you should be ok. If the gears were not welded to the carrier directly (hard to tell in the pics) or the cross pin, you may be able to drive out the pin and slide the whole assembly out. You'll have to remove the ring gear, of course.
If you've got D44s front and rear, then yes, the rear carrier (LSD) should fit in the front. But again, you'll need to reset the gears.
aa
1983 J-10 - 4.6L(MPFI)/CS130D/Hydroboost/NV3550/D300/44/44/3.54/Disc-Disc/32s/42 gallon 'burb tank
Yeah, it doesn't look like the gears are welded to the carrier. So i would try getting the cross pin out. Assuming the spiders are not welded to the cross pin or the cross pin wasn't warped by the heat.
the cross pin has come out but I can't see how the gears are going to come out. I don't see how it can come out as one piece. Any Ideas on how to get them out?
I don't see how they can. The side gears have to move inward to come out and that isn't going to happen with the spiders in the way.
What a mess. Even if the welds break it won't be easy to get them out.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
The only problem with replacing the case is you'd lose the setup. If you can get the shaft and spiders out, you can put the case and bearings back with no additional adjustment.
You have air? I'd use a die grinder with a pointy carbide tip. It will grind away weld easily. Once you have the case out, you can remove the ring gear to have more room to reach the welds. You may need a spreader to get the case out. Protect the bearings from grindings.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.